My fascination with aviation

So I thought I'd write a blog about why I love aviation. I suppose I've always been into it. When I was a child, I would read aircraft books that my brother owned. And living not too far from the airport, I was never far away from an aircraft coming into land. I would spend hours watching aircraft with my Pops in the Summer, sat on the front doorstep of his house.

I live in Ashton-under-Lyne which is about 8 miles away from Manchester Airport. Planes tend to use Ashton as a line up point for an approach into MAN when runway 23R is in use. So this means we see pretty much all of the aircraft as it descends to land. We can observe aircraft anywhere between 6000ft & 2500ft.

I'm not sure why I've suddenly become even more interested in aviation recently, I just think something re-ignited the flame inside me & it's just gone on from there. I now know a lot more about aircraft than I used to & can tell what type of aircraft it is not only by looking at the plane itself but by other factors such as looking at the livery (eg Ryanair use only B737-8AS aircraft for their entire fleet) or listening to the sound of the engines.

I am particularly interested in the heavier/bigger aircraft such as the A380 or the B747. Recently I've developed an increasing love for the MD11 aircraft. I find something beautiful in the third engine on the tail. Other favourites include the B757 & A330.

My love for aircraft is purely aesthetic. It's all about the looks. There is something amazing about the symmetrical look you get when you see the aircraft head on. Here are some of my favourite ever photographs I've taken of aircraft.

See more here.

This post wouldn't be complete without a mention of the Airbus Beluga. What an aircraft! So beautiful & graceful! It is unmistakable even when flying at 40000ft. I usually spot this aircraft when it visits the Airbus factory in Broughton, North Wales.

Thanks for reading & don't forget to leave a comment :)

Photographing the ISS.

I have been photographing the ISS (International Space Station) for around 2 years now. When I first saw the ISS, I was amazed. I'd heard, via twitter, that it was due to fly over. I stood outside with my father & we saw a faint 'star' float softly & slowly over us. I was fascinated. I couldn't quite believe that there were people, on a craft, in space, floating above us & that we could actually see it for ourselves. And since then, I always make an effort to see the station on clear days.



A lot of people have asked me how I photograph the ISS using long exposure & it is quite simple.

Firstly you need to find out when the pass is going to happen, where it will happen & how bright it will be. You can do this by following a number of people on twitter if you have an account. I follow @VirtualAstro & he always tweets the time & place for UK users. Alternatively you can use Heavens-Above. This website, using your location, can tell you the exact time & place for the pass. Once you've got your time, check the weather. If the weather is clear, you're on your way to seeing the ISS!

Secondly, assemble your equipment. For this, you need a DSLR or a compact camera capable of long exposure. I usually go for a 15 second exposure depending on light conditions. I set my camera up on a tripod (a tripod is definitely necessary) & program my camera. My typical settings are 15" sec exposure, ISO 400, 18mm. I always use my 18-55mm kit lens but any wide angle lens works just as well. You can even try photographing the ISS with a long lens (around 300mm) to see whether you can get a close up of the craft.

Set your camera up facing the direction where the ISS will rise & get ready. You should set your camera on a timer or use a remote to avoid shake. When the ISS is visible (it will look like a really bright star moving slowly) you should make any last minute focusing changes & then let your camera stabilise & then shoot. Avoid touching the camera until the exposure is complete, then re-adjust your camera for more photographs or just enjoy seeing a spacecraft float above you!

Post processing should be kept to a minimum. You shouldn't need to do any major editing, just simple exposure, white balance & cropping to your own tastes.



Then, share it with the world! Let me know how you get on.

Sightings - Chads 2012

Just a post to write down a list of wildlife I've seen on a local field area.

Birds

Robin 

Jay

Kestrel

Magpie

Blue Tit

Long Tailed Tit

Grebe

Tufted Duck

Sparrowhawk
Heron

Insects

Skipper

Bee

Burnet Moth

Peacock butterfly

Hoverfly

Other

Frog

Bokeh for Beginners

The word 'bokeh' comes from the Japanese word boke which means 'blur' or 'haze'. The term is generally used to describe the out of focus areas in an image. The technique has become more & more popular over the last ten years. Even professional photographers are constantly finding new ways of using it in their work. Portrait photographers are especially excited about this because it helps to liven up the negative space in an image, resulting in a more complete photography experience. In the post I am going to explain how to get started with bokeh, I'm not going to go into technical details in this blog.

Bokeh can come in all shapes & sizes but the form that most people strive for is a completely smooth circle. This is the most aesthetic type according to many photographers who practice this technique. There is also an hexagonal bokeh which is caused by a 'diaphragm' in the lens being slightly closed. Making different shaped bokeh can be achieved. More on that later! 

If you own a DSLR, a cheap way to get started is to invest in a wide-aperture lens. You can find a Canon/Nikon 50mm f/1.8 lens for around £60 & this will help you to learn more about bokeh. Only you are capable of knowing how you want to use this effect, so experiment & have fun. You can also use your 18-55mm kit lens by keeping the lens at 18mm. It does, however, mean that you will need to get very close to your subject, but the effects are definitely worth it.

For compact camera users, use macro mode & focus close to the subject. In the image to the right, I simply used the macro mode on my camera & shot a daisy on the ground. As you can see, bokeh has been created in the background because the camera is focusing mainly on the daisy, rendering the background out of focus. Obviously this technique limits you to macro images but experiment & find the best way of creating bokeh with your camera. It is very much a learn from practice way of doing things but it will ultimately mean you can learn more about photography, more about your camera & more about yourself in regards to your images (& your patience!). You can also try using the macro mode on  your mobile phone if the option is available.

Photographing street lights, or Christmas tree lights can help you see bokeh in action. Keep your lens wide open (by this I mean at the widest aperture available, which for the 50mm f/1.8 would be f/1.8, or for the kit lens at 18mm, f/3.5). Focus on something close (ie, a car, the road, a tree) but make sure you fill the rest of the space, with the lights of your choice. Or you could make the entire image blurry (see right). which can also make visually pleasing images.

You can use filters to change the shape of bokeh in your images. These are made simply by cutting the desirable shape out of black card or plastic & attaching it to the front of your lens.  You can also buy ready made shapes here. Cut a heart shape into a piece of card, place it on your lens & shoot away. It's as simple as that.

So there we have it; a quick guide to making bokeh. Any questions regarding this post can be asked either in the comments below, on twitter (@_purpleface) or facebook.

Photographing the Moon

Almost full Moon 6/2/2012, originally uploaded by purpleface.

Just a quick blog about how I photographed the moon last night & how you can do the same. Like other photographs I've taken of the night sky I used a DSLR (in this case a Canon 7D) + 300mm lens + tripod. Settings for this shot were; f/5.6, ISO160, 1/500. 

First of all, you need a tripod. A tripod is essential. Next, a remote. A remote could be seen as essential but don't worry too much if you don't have one - you can use the in-camera timer. This post is mainly about photographing the moon with a DSLR + 200-300mm (or longer) lens but don't worry if you don't own a DSLR because I'll be making a separate post about non-DSLR moon shots in due course - keep an eye out!

So, to start with, if your camera has 'liveview', you can use this to your advantage by getting the moon in frame & using the zoom buttons to aid you with your focusing. If you aren't lucky enough to have this feature then it may mean you need to take a few shots to test the focus whilst adjusting along the way.

Once you're happy with focus, you can then play around with your photo settings. Start with an ISO of 160. Now, depending on the moon phase you are photographing, your settings will be different for each phase. Start with exposures of 1/125 for crescent, 1/250 for quarter, 1/500 for gibbous & 1/1000 for full. Now these are only guidelines because they will change with factors such as light pollution, sky pollution & cloud cover. For example, the image at the top of this post had settings of 1/500 at f/5.6, ISO160 even though it is nearly full. This is because I live on the outskirts of a large city, therefore the moon is not as bright as it would be as somewhere with complete darkness.

You will need to experiment with settings & focal lengths before you get a picture that you're happy with. After you've finished your photography session, you may find that adjustments in Photoshop will improve your photograph further. I personally edit the contrast & I also sharpen the image to accentuate any craters seen in my image.

And with a lovely full moon on the cards for this evening (7/2/2012) you might want to wrap up warm & get photographing. I look forward to seeing the results! Thanks for reading.

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Photographing the Aurora Borealis

Aurora Borealis - Cresswell, Northumberland, UK - 22/1/2012 by Lee Jennings

A few people have asked me how to photograph the Aurora. I thought I'd write a little blog post about it. I have never done it myself, but I think the process is pretty simple. I've been researching the best ways to go about it because I hope that one day I'll be able to see & photograph this phenomenon myself. All you need is patience, time, crisp clear skies & a long exposure enabled camera. This post is written mainly for UK spotters. Before I start, it is important that you know that the aurora is very, very unpredictable & it is extremely rare in the UK.

So, firstly, you need to check forecasts. Now I know that sounds silly, but with a little bit of research you can find out the likelihood of a CME impact. Without a CME impact, there may not be Aurora strong enough to reach you should you live further south than Northern Scotland.

CMEs, or Coronal Mass Ejections, are the reason behind the Aurora Borealis. In short, the sun releases 'flares' which are made up of solar wind. This wind then travels the 93 million or so miles towards earth (but not exclusively, of course) to then clash with our Earth's magnetic field. The solar wind then reacts with the magnetic field, produced the stunning displays of Aurora seen in the very north or south of the earth. Occasionally, it is possible to see the aurora in the UK. The intensity of the storm can be measured using the K-index. The higher the KP number, the more chance you'll have of seeing Aurora. For example, I am currently near Manchester & I need a KP of around 8 or 9 for the lights to be visible for me. For more information on finding your KP number & finding out about the K-index, check out the links at the end of this post. 

So, when you find that the northern lights might make an appearance in your area, you need to find a spot, away from light pollution, with a clear view of the horizon, facing north. You may find as the storm starts, you will be confined to staring at the northern horizon & you may not even see anything at first. But as the storm gets stronger, you may see full displays overhead. This depends on where you are & the intensity of the storm. As soon as you find the Aurora, get your camera set up. You need a good sturdy tripod & a remote control (or you can use the timer) to avoid shake.

DSLR users: A wide angle lens is best for this, as is a wide aperture. The wider the aperture, the more light your camera will let in. I personally stop down to around f3.5 to f5.6 for star photographs. Take a few test shots of around 1-2 seconds to check composition & focus, make the necessary adjustments & then extend your exposure time to around 10-15 seconds. Your ISO setting should be around 400-1000, depending on how bright your aurora is. If you find that your shots are coming out dark, try extending the time or stepping up the ISO. If they come out too light, do the opposite. Experiment until you find the perfect exposure & snap away.

Point & shoot users: depending on the specifications of your compact camera, while not impossible, it may be more difficult to photograph with a point & shoot. If you can, use the manual controls & play around with the settings before you even set foot outside so that you can be ready. You need a camera capable of ISO400-800, long exposures & digital zoom. Follow the steps above & you may be surprised at what you come out with. And don't forget your tripod!

It is hard for anyone to tell when the northern lights will arrive because it is such a hit & miss event. The best way to go about it is to follow & few people on twitter (my personal recommendations would be @VirtualAstro & @mark_humpage) because they will be able to advise you on what's happening.

Enjoy your hunt for the northern lights. I'm sure it's a wonderful & unforgettable experience!

Links -

K-index & KP numbers

http://spaceweather.com/glossary/kp.html

http://www.swpc.noaa.gov/info/kp-aurora.html

http://www.swpc.noaa.gov/Aurora/globeNE.html

Aurora forecasts & current activity

http://aurorawatch.lancs.ac.uk/

http://www.softservenews.com/Aurora.htm

General information
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aurora_(astronomy)
http://www.pfrr.alaska.edu/aurora/index.html

Orion Nebula 14/01/2012

Orion Nebula 14/01/2012, originally uploaded by purpleface.


The weather over the past few days has been amazing. Lovely crisp blue skies, amazing sunsets & wonderfully clear night skies. And I've been using this to my advantage, taking as many photos of the stars as I can.
I had the idea to photograph the Orion Nebula (see above) for a few nights but I was waiting for the sky to become fully clear. I first photographed the nebula when the sky was hazy & the full moon was casting its glow across most of the sky. The photograph I got on that night was amazing (to me, it was amazing, obviously it's not amazing to those with epic telescopes & satellites deep in space ;p) & it surprised me because I never expected to be able to capture a photograph like this. I thought it was reserved for people with powerful telescopes! 


I made a pact with myself that I would go out there again when the moon wasn't due to rise until 3am & when there was less haze around. 


That night happened a few days later. It was -2 & there was frost on the ground so I wrapped up extra warm & took the camera out to cool (tell me if I'm wrong but letting the sensor cool on your camera helps reduce noise...I think). After a little while I started to photograph the nebula using various different settings. Now, you all know that the earth spins, this is what gives us night & day. Therefore, if you set your camera up to expose for 30 seconds, you're going to get light trails instead of a still (for want of a better word) image. As my camera ISO goes up to 12000, I stepped it right up & I exposed for 3.2 seconds. For me, this is the best way to be able to capture a still shot without using a tracking device. I did, however, find that ISO 12000 was too noisy so I stepped it down to 5000. And that seemed to do the trick. I imported the shot into Lightroom, tweaked around with some settings & this is what I came out with. 


I used a Canon 7D with a 90-300mm lens.


I'm pretty happy with it. Next step is to get a new mirror for the telescope (we accidentally knocked it over & the mirror smashed inside) & an adapter for my DSLR. Then we'll be away! Hope you enjoyed this post, thanks for reading. If you have any questions you can either leave them in the comments box or you can join me on twitter (tweeting as @_purpleface) or facebook (facebook.com/purplefacephotography).

Jupiter, Moon & ISS - 2/1/2012

Jupiter, Moon & ISS - 2/1/2012, originally uploaded by purpleface.

I love photographing the ISS. Watching it float over the earth, knowing that it is travelling at over 17000 miles an hour while looking as though it is travelling the same speed as your average aeroplane is pretty amazing.

I've been photographing the ISS for just under a year now, my first ever shot was in March 2011. It was a lovely experience, standing in my back garden, waiting for it to pass over. I'd get my Dad out to look & my partner, Chris, would also come & look out for it with us. It brought us together, looking up into the sky not really knowing where to look first. And then, it'd appear & it was a fight to get my camera in the right position, to get the tripod to stay still. I fumbled my way through the first 30 seconds of the pass, but eventually I got it, a purple tinged sky with the bright streak of the ISS through it. I was proud.



I always get excited when the sky clears & my twitter timeline is rife with ISS pass times. I've made a lot of online friends over the months I've been photographing the ISS & I hope that I'll make many more. :)

2012 Photography Goals

I have a few new years resolutions for 2012 that I'd like to share with you all, regarding photography.

1 Learn to master shallow depth of field
      - I am constantly getting back from a shoot in the fields or park, loading my shots onto my laptop & finding that half my photos are out of focus. I'm always shooting at f/1.4 which is what I enjoy but I've reached a place where I've shot the same way for a number years that I'm getting lazy. So I'm just pointing the camera anywhere & not even bothering sometimes. I need to look more, focus more, take more time in getting the shots I want. I come home with 200 or so shots & most of the time 190 of them are unusable. I need to stop being so lazy in my routine & mix things up again.

2 Step away from shallow depth of field more often.
      - I know I've just said I'd like to master it more, but I also think I need to step away from the wide apertures & start shooting with apertures of say 5.6 or so. 1.4 is nice, it gives a lovely effect but I use it for EVERYTHING, & everything doesn't necessarily work with apertures that wide, hence the above goal of not getting much in focus. I need to stop using 1.4 all the time & I need to use my initiative more when it comes to aperture.

3 Get published
     - I got published a few times in 2011, but in 2012 I want to turn my attention to the big guys. I got published in a big magazine who gave me a two page spread much to my surprise, but I'd like to get published in a more professional magazine as the one I was in is more for the amateur photographers. I feel like I need to step away from the amateur side of things & enter into the professional world.

4 Be in an exhibition
     - I have an idea of an exhibition that I'd like to put on myself with work from all my friends. I know a lot of talented people & I think we'd all benefit from having our work featured in an exhibition in a nearby city. If that doesn't come to fruition then I'll look at other options but I think it's a nice idea.

5 Reach 1000 likes on Facebook
      - It's just something I'd like to do. I like the idea of people from other countries seeing my work & Facebook allows you to find out where people are liking your page from. It's amazing all the different countries that come up in my insights. 1000 likes just seems like an all-round nice number to reach. As I write this now, I'm currently on 882.

6 Continue photographing the subjects I want to
     - I am proud of the fact that I photograph the things I want to rather than the things I think I need to. By that I mean I photograph the things around me, the nature that is available to me on my own doorstep. I don't want to suddenly think that because the majority of people are photographing people, or weddings, or animals, that I should be doing that too.

7 Blog more
     - I want to share my work more online & blog about the experience. My photos hold lots of memories for me & I think it'd be nice to share those memories. I hope that there will be lots of nice memories in 2012.

Down in the Woods

Down in the Woods, originally uploaded by purpleface.

Autumn is here! I'm always excited for this season to arrive because of so many things.

Photographically autumn brings more inspiration for me. Frost, the leaves changing colours, those lovely foggy mornings, not to mention those conkers & acorns!

Personally it is a time for preparing for winter, grabbing your big coat & stocking up on hot chocolate, fluffy socks & water bottles.

Then there is Halloween which is always fun & bonfire night is a wonderful time too!

It is just an utterly magic time in so many ways.

My neighbourhood

My area is beautiful regardless of the season, weather, etc. These are a few shots from over on the field :)